Nancy Collins wrote:
During his recovery, my horse was trimmed aggressively and the laminar wedge
removed. I think Dr Bowker has talked about his concerns regarding bone
remodeling when this is done. I'm wondering what other folks experiences
have been when not removing this wedge but working as Leslie has suggested,
making the hoof wall passive?
This is pretty much how I work, Nancy. I have been leaving as much of the wall capsule as possible for a few years now. I have several reasons, and the advantage in the end is that I can create a quick, easy trim, it's easy to explain/diagram to consulting clients by e-mail, it's relatively intuitive to understand, and it works great!
Here's why:
1) I used to back the wall up vertically at the breakover point. I had this great old fellow I was working on who had an abscess tract up through his laminar wedge. One day after his trim & diet corrections he was feeling so great he got to ripping and tearing around the pasture, and came up lame. The owner called me out because "his crack was worse" (I had been calmly reassuring her not to worry, that when everything was right it would grow out). Well it was worse. His foot had split in half right up the dorsal wall. Now, a year and a half later, I've got it grown out about 3/4 of the way down. It's been a project. The situation is one of those "we do the best we can" ones. Horse is very uncooperative when he hurts, there are family issues, etc. etc. and of course under perfect control this would not have happened. If the trim is right and the horse's exercise is restricted, of course this wouldn't happen. I can't control all of that - I need to trim to keep control of what I can, and so leaving the wall of the hoof capsule intact has been a sort of insurance policy for me. It only took one of those to forever spook me about what I do at the toe ...
2) I like to watch the growth patterns change over time as the foot grows out. The wall is like a journal of the last year, and if I leave it there I can really watch what's going on as the foot grows down.
3) It works fine. My mentor told me years ago - long before I started shoeing! - that the best way to grow a better foot is to put the shoe where you want the foot to grow to. That is a tried & true approach in shoeing, *but it works in trimming too*. KC LaPierre repeats "the best stimulus for growth of the foot is pressure". The converse is also true. To reduce too much growth, reduce the pressure. In other words, trim the foot where you want it to end up. If you put the footprint in the right place (ground parallel coffin bone, weightbearing just outside the rim of the coffin bone and on the frog, and weight-sharing on bars and sole) the foot will come out right.
With the chronically foundered foot that often means the footprint is on some tissue that LOOKS LIKE sole (actually it USED TO BE sole) and the wall must be made totally passive to the weightbearing rim of "sole". The weird thing is, when you get that right it's like magic.
(Footnote though is that the DDT still applies in spades, and often the circulation in the foot benefits from nitric oxide support as we use it under Dr Kellon's protocol. That really turbocharges the trim. Halfway measures get halfway results, too, and if the nutrition can't support the horn growth in the foot, changes may be slow.)
-Abby
also PS - I'm going to be away for the holiday w/e so if I don't reply later I'll be back late Sunday or Monday.
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Abby Bloxsom
www.advantedgeconsulting.com