Re: Lavinia - new mark-ups request

Lavinia Fiscaletti

Hi Kathy,

I've added mark-ups to Magni's album:

Biggest issues are that the toes need to be backed up to get the breakover set closer to the tip of the frog and the heels are underrun.  The two things commonly go hand-in-hand. There are mild lateral flares on all four feet and the frogs are somewhat elongated, which is masking the fact that the toes have run ahead of where they need to be. This configuration then self-perpetuates as with every step, the heels get driven forward.\. Need to take the toes back thru what appears to be thee white line - or thru that built up ridge of material that is covering the white line. This is not toe callous. Only trim off ragged bits of frog, if needed, leaving s much calloused frog in place as possible. You don't want to expose any of the waxy, immature frog underneath. Check the medio-lateral balance of each foot by measuring both collateral groove depths then comparing them -  you want both to be the same depth, and not less than 1" at their deepest point near the back of the foot. The goal is to have the depth at 3/4" near the apex of the frog. Less than this means DO NOT remove anything as there is already too little material. See here for more:

LF dorsal: Green line follows the angle of the healthier attachments coming in under the coronary band toward the ground. The blue area is the remaining flared material- rasp it inward to match the angle from above, then finish with a bevel at ground level so that the weaker attached wall material isn't involved in weight bearing.

LF lateral: Green line follows the angle of the new growth above - which isn't really visible due to the heavy hair obscuring the coronary band but is indicated by the dishing of the dorsal wall. This isn't a trim line, just a visual for where the dorsal wall will eventually be aligned when the entire hoof capsule stands up straighter and more fully under the bony column. Orange line shows where the heels should be located, again, once they stand up straighter. Blue area is where the toe needs to be backed up between 10 and 2.

LF sole: Solid blue line is where to bring the toe back/walls in to, with the hashed areas all the material that needs to be removed. Finish with a bevel all around. The wall on the medial side is intentionally left untouched as that isn't flared so doesn't need to be pulled inward. Take the walls in the heel buttresses completely out of weight bearing, allowing the bar to be the highest point there. See figures 2 and 3 here:

Lightly ramp the bars (yellow hashes) up to the buttresses but don't remove any height from them once you get to the wall-bar juncture. Ramp the heel buttresses behind the wall-bar juncture back toward the heel bulbs (orange hashes). Nothing off the sole.

RF dorsal: Same idea as the LF, with the blue area the remaining slight flare.

RF lateral: Follow the discussion for the LF. Notice that this one isn't as dished as the LF is.

RF sole: Same as the LF.

LH dorsal: Again, a bit of lateral flare to bring in.

LH lateral: Same idea as the fronts, tho the toe isn't as far forward.

LH sole: Blue solid line is where to pull the toe back to and the lateral wall flare inward to. Leave the heels alone except to add a ramp to the backs of them to help ease landings and encourage them to stand up a bit more. Preserve all the vertical height there is.

RH dorsal: Same ideas the LH.

RH lateral: Again, pull in the blue area. Green and orange lines are visual markers, not trim lines.

RH sole: Same as the other three.

If you have less than 1" depth to the collateral grooves at their deepest points and/or less than 3/4" near the apex of the frog, Magni should be wearing padded boots to protect his soles. Work to produce consistent heel-first landings on whatever footing he is on as toe-first is never what you want to see.

Lavinia, George Too, Calvin (PPID) and Dinky (PPID/IR)
Nappi, George and Dante Over the Bridge
Jan 05, RI
Moderator ECIR

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