Scooter's Hooves ready for 1st markup - with X-rays (!!)


Leah Bartel
 

Hello everyone,

As requested I had x-rays done for Scooter's hooves. I was able to put playdough in her collateral grooves, but due to an untimely emergency, wasn't able to put a tack at the tip of her frog or a metal wire down the front of her hoof before the vet arrived. Hopefully the x-rays as they are will be good enough to allow you all to give me advice on how to trim her moving forward. 

Please let me know if you need anything else from me. Thanks.
--
Leah
Ohio
2019

Scooter's Case History: https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/files/Leah%20and%20Scooter
Scooter's Photo Album: https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/album?id=240467


Lavinia Fiscaletti
 
Edited

Hi Leah,

Thanks for putting up the rads and hoof pix.

Toes need to come way back, soles are thin but not dangerously so.  There is some degree of sinking, which is part of the thin sole issue. Walls are flaring. Frogs and soles are being heavily over trimmed so need to be left alone in the future. Also need to get a set of shots of the hind feet.

Please let me know once the hind foot shots are up and I can get you some mark-ups.

--
Lavinia, George Too, Calvin (PPID) and Dinky (PPID/IR)
Nappi, George and Dante Over the Bridge
Jan 05, RI
Moderator ECIR


Leah Bartel
 

Hi Lavinia,

How do you know the frog and soles are being heavily over-trimmed? What should they look like instead? I was always told to just remove the "junk" sole (flaky, crumbly looking) and leave the "live" sole (smooth). I also have been mostly leaving the soles alone, except for the bar area and have been blending the bars into the natural sole. The frog Ive always been told to trim so that it is passive to the heels, meaning just slightly shorter than the heels. Please let me know if any of these frames of reference that I've been using to trim are incorrect or need to be changed in Scooter's case.

The hind foot shots have been uploaded as well so I'd love to get the markups soon! Thanks!
--
Leah
Ohio
2019

Scooter's Case History: https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/files/Leah%20and%20Scooter
Scooter's Photo Album: https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/album?id=240467


Lavinia Fiscaletti
 
Edited

H Leah,

Trimming feet to remain barefoot is not the same as trimming a foot in preparation for putting a shoe on it. Many practices that are "the norm" for shoeing are detrimental to the health of the foot as a whole but may be necessary in order to be able to attach a shoe. They may also just be long-standing traditions that aren't based on physiology.

There is no visible calloused frog remaining on the front feet, so that means they are over-trimmed. Only remove flaps that are already dangling. Frogs need to callous off just like the soles. It is the protective layer that keeps the live tissue from being exposed. In general, farriers tend to like to make the frogs look neat, tidy and shiny - to the detriment of their being able to function properly. The frog should be solidly in ground contact. Have a read here for more info:

http://www.hoofrehab.com/FrogTrim.html

Ditto for the soles of  barefoot horse - they will, for the most part, clean up their own soles as needed. If there is laminitis, flaring, tenderness in the feet - first rule is to leave the soles alone as they are likely already too thin and can use every millimeter of extra protection that they can find. Bars serve a function, more of one when the horse has other structural issues in the hoof. If the bars aren't actually "offering" to crack off, chances are they are needed and you should be very cautious in dealing with them:

http://www.hoofrehab.com/HorsesSole.html

http://www.hoofrehab.com/TheBars.htm

Thanks for getting the additional photos up. I'll get some mark-ups to you but I do have a couple of people already in line so it likely won't be before the weekend.

--
Lavinia, George Too, Calvin (PPID) and Dinky (PPID/IR)
Nappi, George and Dante Over the Bridge
Jan 05, RI
Moderator ECIR


Leah Bartel
 

Lavinia,

Should I expect to get the markups through email? Thanks.
--
Leah
Ohio
2019

Scooter's Case History: https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/files/Leah%20and%20Scooter
Scooter's Photo Album: https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/album?id=240467


Lavinia Fiscaletti
 
Edited

Hi Leah,

I've added mark-ups to Scooter's album:

https://ecir.groups.io/g/CaseHistory/album?id=240467&p=Created,,,20,2,0,0

Thanks for making the extra effort of getting Scooter's feathers pulled back as much as possible. As discussed a bit previously, the soles are thinner than ideal, toes are too far out ahead of where they need to be at ground level, heels are somewhat underrun and there is sinking present. There is a bit of a ski tip starting to develop on both fronts from the excess toe length. Flaring on all four feet but the fronts are more heavily affected. The general goal should be to allow more overall vertical height to be added to the hoof capsule to help compensate for the sinking and to allow the soles to add more depth. Backing up the toes all around will move the breakover back to where the bony column needs it to be and will remove the tearing forces that are leveraging the laminar connections with every step.

RF dorsal: Can see the significant flaring, with the medial wall worse than the lateral. The green lines follow the angles of the more tightly attached growth from just under the coronary band toward the ground. Blue Xs are what needs to be removed so it aligns with the healthier growth. Work on the bottom 1/3 of the hoof capsule the most aggressively while leaving the material above this point alone until it grows further down. Bevel at ground level to keep the outer wall from weight bearing until all the detached material has grown out. The crack that is visible in the center of the toe is in laminar wedge and will completely disappear when the toe gets backed up to where it needs to be.

RF lateral composite: On the radiograph, the pink line is where the bony column should align. It ends intentionally below where the foot actually does at the point where the sole depth should be and the horizontal toe length should end. Nothing should be in ground contact beyond this point. Purple line follow the actual position of the bony column - note how it drops back and down from the pink line. This is a broken back HPA. Both the sinking and underrun heels are contributing to the problem and the long toe exacerbates the damage that is being done. Blue line is where the toe needs to be brought back to, with the blue X being the excess toe length. Green line follows the angle of the healthier new growth coming in under the coronary band - this IS NOT a trim line, just a visual marker. Thinning the dorsal wall along its entire length makes things look better but doesn't address the real problem at ground level. Red line is where the bottom of the foot should be, with more depth being needed in the back half of the foot. Yellow line #1 runs thru the coronary band while yellow line #2 points to the extensor process. These should align, or at least be close together. The distance between them denotes the amount of sinking.
On the middle photo, the green line is the same as the one on the rad. The orange line is where the heels should be. The blue area corresponds to the excess toe length. The yellow lines follow some of the horn tubules from top to bottom - note how they angle forward and are bowed. These should run parallel to the green and orange line. They are an indicator that the foot has run forward and that the toe is too long.
Last photo is an idea of what the healthy foot should actually be looking like. You can't trim the current hoof capsule into this shape but you can trim to set up the blueprint to allow it to grow back in this way in the future.

RF lifted: Green line is the same as in the previous photos. Blue area is what needs to be removed to back the toe up to set the breakover in the correct place. Red line is where the bottom of the foot should be - so need to leave everything on the bottom alone as the frog, bars, heels, wall and sole need to add vertical height/depth to get to this point. Allow the frog to firmly touch the ground so it can provide support, esp. as it appears to be fairly

RF solar margin: Blue hashed area corresponds to the blue on the previous rads/photos = excess toe length.

RF sole: Again, blue hashed area corresponds to the blue on the rads and previous photos = flaring walls and excess toe length that needs to be removed. Pink rectangles are where the heel buttresses are currently, orange squares are where they should be - even with each other and with the central sulcus. Lime ovals are the areas where adding a bevel to the backs of the current heel buttresses will aid in starting to move the heels back without losing precious vertical height that is NOT available to lose. Frog is elongated but appears to be relatively healthy. Allow it to callous over and remain in ground contact so that it becomes even stronger. Only trim off any flaps that might develop that could trap pathogens underneath. 

LF dorsal: Same general notes as R, except the lateral wall flares more than the medial one.

LF lateral composite: Same discussion as the RF, except that the bony column alignment is OK (pink and purple lines overlap). Sorry, the blue line in the heel area should also be a yellow line.

LF lateral lifted: Same as RF.

LF solar margin: Again, same as RF.

LF sole: Same discussion as RF sole.

RH lateral composite: Note the curve in the yellow lines, which is less obvious than in the fronts but if you run your hand lightly down the dorsal surface of the hoof, you will be able to feel it. That dishing is a red flag that the toe is too long. Blue area is the extra toe length. The horn tubules should run parallel to the green and orange lines.
second photo has been shifted to give you and idea of what a healthier version of this foot would look like.

RH sole: Same general comments as the fronts but the toe length isn't as excessive. Although there is flaring, it doesn't appear to be as significant as in the fronts. Again, be careful not to lower the heels but rather work to allow them to stand more upright by beveling the backs of the current heel buttresses toward the heel bulbs and along the flaring outer wall (Lime circles).

LH lateral: Same as RH except that there may not be any dishing of the dorsal wall.

LH sole: Same discussion as the RH.

These are the ultimate goals. How quickly you can get things to where they need to be will depend on how Scooter takes to the changes. Small, frequent, incremental changes (think once per week or ten days) will likely be better accepted than major ones done once per month. Boots with pads should be used any time he isn't comfortable. If using boots, need to make sure they have good bevels added to the treads both at the front and back of each boot.

--
Lavinia, George Too, Calvin (PPID) and Dinky (PPID/IR)
Nappi, George and Dante Over the Bridge
Jan 05, RI
Moderator ECIR